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LADIES' AND CHILDREN'S lEIlRING 5PPAREL. 



Science and Geometry of Dress. 



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THE 



SCIENCE AND GEOMETRY OF DRESS 



BEING A COMPLETE MANUAL OP INSTRUCTION IN THE 



ART OF DESIGNING, DRAFTING AND CUHING 



LADIES' AND CHILDREN'S 



WEARING APPAREL 



AN ENTIRELY 



New and Original Metliod of Teacliing. 



SPECIALLY DESIGNED AND ARRANGED FOR SCHOOLS, PRIVATE 
TUITION, DRESS-MAKERS AND LADIES GENERALLY. 






By MRS. L. L. JACKSON, 

AUTHOR OF THE "FAMILY DRESS GUIDE," ETC., 

INDIANAPOLIS, IND. 




Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1889, by Mrs. Louisa L Jacksov, 

in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 

Right of translation reserved. 



CONTENTS, 



PAGE. 

Elementary Rules and Definitions 7 

Description of Diagrams 1 and 2 7 

How to draft dress-waist when open at front 8 

How to shape front ai-m-curve 8 

How to draft length of waist 10 

How to draft front neck 10 

How to draft the front shoulder 12 

How to find proper height of darts at front 12 

To measure dart space at bottom of waist 12 

Front of dress-waist completed 14 

How to draft back of dress-waist 14 

How to shape the back arm-curve 16 

How to draft length of waist 16 

How to draft bottom of waist-line 16 

Manner of drafting back-shoulder 18 

Manner of shaping side-form 18 

Back of dress-waist completed IS 

Front of lady's basque drafted 20 

To find the slope of the gore 22 

How to curve the bottom of skirt 22 

To lengthen or extend the darts 22 

Front of basque completed 22 

Back of lady's basque drafted 24 

How to draft the skirt of lady's basque 24 

Back of basque completed 24 

Lady's polonaise, or Directoii-e coat 26 

D'irectoire coat, with box-plait 26 

Miss' basque, closed at front..! 28 

Miss' basque, open at back 28 

Lady's loose sacque cloak, double-breasted 30 

Lady's circular 33 

Hood for circular *. 35 

Gent's sacque yoke shirt 36 

Dress skirt, without train 39 

Dress skirt, with train 39 

Lady's sacque chemise 42 

Lady's yoke chemise 42 

Corset cover 44 

Lady's drawers 46 

Lady's newmarket, vrith palerine sleeve 47 

Lady's tea gown, front and back , 50 

Diagram for bell sleeve 52 

Diagram for average size collars 53 

>Standard wrap, with dolman sleeve ., 54 



Manner and Order of Taking Measures. 



1st. Breast — Draw the tape-liue loosely over the fullest part 
of the bust, measuring across from arm to arm. 

2d. Around Waist — Take this measure tight or loose, as you 
wish the dress at this part. 

3d. Around the top of the Arm — Take the measure close. 

4th. Length of Waist under the arm — Place the tape-line di- 
rectly underneath the arm-curve, and measure straight down to the 
waist or hip, as long as the dress should be worn. 

5th. Length of Waist up Center of Front — Take this measure 
from the waist or bottom of belt as low down at front as the dress 
can be worn, up to the neck as high as may be desired. 

6th. Around the Neck — Allowing the tape-line to meet closely 
around, so as to admit the end of the fore-finger underneath. 

7th. Shoulder — Measure down the shoulder-seam, from the 
neck to the top of the arm-size, as long as fashion or taste may 
require. 

8th. Across the Back — Draw the tape-line directly across the 
back, over the shoulder-blades from arm to arm. 

9th. Length up Center of Back — This measure should be taken 
from the bottom of the waist or belt, to the neck as high as you 
wish the dress. 



Suggestions on the Position of the Person while being 

measured; also, on the proper manner of placing the 

Tape-line at the different points of the form. 

While being measured, the lady should stand in a natural po- 
sition, viz., erect, and with arms down. 

To prevent mistakes by beginners, or those unpracticed, it is 
advisable to take the measures over a well-fitting caress. 

For Breast — The end of the tape-line should be placed near the 
lower j)art of arm-curve, in front, not underneath, pressing suffi- 
ciently to feel the muscle of the arm, at the same time allowing the 
tape-line to pass over the fullest part of the bust, in a curved direc- 
tion, until it reaches the same muscle in front of the arm at the 
opposite side of the breast. The measure across the bust can be 
made tight or loose, according to the manner in which the tape-line 
is drawn over the bust. 

Around the Waist — The tape-measure should be drawn tight, 
so as to allow for its being taken over the dress. 

Arm-Size — Take the measure around that part of the arm of the 
dress where the sleeve is sewed in, drav/ing the tape-line loose, or 
tight, according to the size of the person. As a general rule, for a 
large-sized arm, this measure should be taken closer than for a 
medium-size or a small arm. In judging of the correct size, measure 
and compare with the arm-size of the dress the lady has on. 

Length of Waist under the Arm — The tape-line should be placed 
directly underneath the arm, and the measure taken straight down 
to the bottom of the waist, on the hip as long as the dress, at this 
part, can be worn. 

Length up Center of Front — This measure should be taken from 
the bottom of the waist or belt, as low down as is natural for the 
dress to be worn, up to the neck at front. 

In taking this measure be careful and accurate, as it deter- 
mines the height of the neck at front, and also forms a basis in 
finding the slope of the shoulder. 

If this measure is taken low down on the waist place the tape-line 
as low, in proportion, when taking the measure up the center of 
front. 

Both measure of M-aist and xx^ center of front serve an impor- 
tant part in regulating the slope of the shoulder. 



[5] 

Nech — Do uot measure over the dress or collar, but allow the 
tape-line to just meet around the neck with end of forefinger under- 
neath. Too loose a measure at this part will cause too much full- 
ness on the upper part of the shoulder, near the neck. ' 

It is always better to take a snug measure at this part, then 
stretch the neck of the dress before putting on the band. 

Shoulder — In measuring this part of the form, place the tape- 
line up to the side of the neck, as high as the band of the dress ; 
then measure down the shoulder-seam, from the neck to the top of 
arm-size, the desired length. 

For ladies with large bust ; also, for loose waist and wrappers, 
the shoulder-measure should be taken from J to 1 inch longer. 
This gives a better proportion in drafting the pattern. 

Across the Back — Place the end of the tape-line directly at the 
arm, passing it over the shoulder-blades from arm to arm. 

Length up Center of Bach — The end of the tape-line should be 
placed on the waist, below the belt, as low down as the dress can 
be worn, then measure up to the back of the neck as high as you 
wish the neck of the dress. 

In finding the proportion of the several parts of the 
form, by the process of measuring just given, it is important to re- 
member that upon the accuracy of the measures and their correct 
application in drafting depends the perfect fit of the garment. It 
is also to be understood that the method of measurement previously 
described is applicable alike to every style of garment, whether 
loose-fitting or tight, with this difference, viz., that for loose and 
half-loose garments, an addition of 1 or 2 inches should be made 
to the breast-measure when drafting, and from 2 to 3 inches should 
be added to the measure around the waist for fullness to correspond. 
When taking measures write in same order as given below ; 

Standard Measures. 
To be used in drafting while under instructions. Patterns when 
drafted will fit any average form without alteration. 

INCHES. 

16 — Breast. 

24 — Around the AVaist. 

15 — Arm-Size. 

8 — Length of Waist, under the Arm. 
13 — Length up Center of Front. 
12 —Neck. 

5J— Shoulder. 
12 — Across the Back. 
15J — Length up Center of Back. 



[6] 
Sleeve Measures. 

INCHES. 

17 — Top at Arm. 
16 — Length Inside. 

8 — Around the Hand. 
12 — Around the Elbow. 

Skirt Measures. 

INCHES. 

40— Center of Front. 

41— Side. 

42— Center of Back. 

Skirt-Lengths for Train Dress, 

INCHES. 

40 — Center of Front. 
40i — Seam Next Front. 
42J— Seam at the Side. 
46 — Seam Next Back. 
48 —Center of Back. 

Allow for all seams except neck and arm-size. 



THE 



Science and Geometry of Drf.ss. 



ELEMENTARY RULES AND DEFINITIONS. 



IvKSSON 1. 



Diagram 1 — This is designed to represent the front of dress- 
waist in its general shape and outline, with the names and location 
of the points, curves and lines forming the basis of the measure- 
ments used in drafting the front of dress-waist. 

Diagram 2 — This is designed to show the proj^er position of 
the front dress-guide on the goods in the first stage of drafting. 

The heavy line, running parallel with the front edge of dress 
guide, indicates the two selvage-edges of the dress goods placed 
together in position for drafting. 

The dots composing the two lines running across the diagram 
near its center, represent the measurement of the breast ; and the 
dots composing the line running across the diagram near the bot- 
tom denote measurement around the waist. 

The figures and large dots, marked 16* 16* breast,; also, 24* 33- 
and 42" around the waist, denote average measures used by stu- 
dents in drafting while under instructions. 

The 1-inch space between the edge of dress-goods and the front 
edge of the dress-guide, denotes the space allowed for hem or 
curve and is required for all waists which are open at the center 
of front. 



[8] 

How to Draft the Front of Dress- Waist. 

[open at the center.] 

The Proper Position of Front Guide on the Goods when Dotting at 
the Measures for Breast and Waist. 

First, arrange the dress-goods or lining in the following posi- 
tion, viz.: Fold the goods double, by placing the two selvage-edges 
exactly together, and directly in front, with the top or upper end 
of the goods at the left-hand side. 

Rule 1 — Place the front guide in the position represented by 
diagram 2, viz.: With the point of front-neck, resting at the top 
or upper end of the goods, and the front edge of the guide 
placed parallel with and 1 inch distant from the selvage-edge of 
the dress-goods all the way down; then draw a line along the 
front-edge of the guide from the front-neck-point to the bottom 
of the waist. This is called the hem line. 

Rule 2 — Keep the guide in the position just described, and 
proceed to make dots through the perforations marked 16' 16' breast, 
and 24* 33* and 42* around the waist, as represented by the large 
dots in diagram 2. 

The figures 24 denote the actual size around the waist, and 
the two spaces occurring between 24* 33* and 42*, indicate the addi- 
tional allowance required for the taking up of the two darts at the 
front of dress-waist — each space representing nine numbers, Avhich 
is equivalent to the width of one dart. 

How to Shape the Front Arm-Curve. 
[see diagram 4.] 

Rule 3 — This is done by placing the two dots B* B* (printed 
on the front arm-curve of the guide), exactly at, and just touch- 
ing the two dots 16* 16* previously made on the goods for breast 
measure. While the guide remains in this position, draw a line 
around the edge of the arm-curve, from 15, arm-measure printed 
on the edge near the top, to the figures 15, near the arm-point. 



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Front VA<rQ of Dress Guide. 



1. inch for heai or curve. 



£clg^e of Dress Oootls. 




Length of Waist 
under the Arm. 




Center of Front. 



[10] 

How to Draft Length-of-Waist- 
[under the arm.] 

Rule 4 — Place the arm-j^oiut of the guide, exactly at, and just 
touching the arm-point on the goods, with the length-of-waist 
edge of the guide placed close to, and on a line with the dot marked 
24', the measure around-the-waist as shown in diagram 4. Then 
draw a line along the edge of the guide, from the arm-point, 
down to the figure 8, denoting the length of waist. 

The figures for length-of-waist sizes are printed down the 
length-of-waist edge of guide. 

The Proper Position of the Dress-Guide when Drafting the Waist- 
Line at Front. 

Rule 5 — Place the front-edge of dress-guide close to and 
parallel with the hem-line, then move the guide downward, in the 
same parallel position, until the end of length-of-waist line ap- 
pears just below, and on a line with the bottom-edge of dress 
guide ; then draw a line across from the end of length-of-M'aist 
line, indicated by figure 8, to the hem at front. See diagram 4. 

How to Measure for Length Up Center of Front. 

Rule 6 — Place the front-edge of the guide close to and paral- 
lel with the hem-line of the goods, and the bottom-edge of guide 
resting on the waist-line ; then make a dot on the hem-line at the 
figures indicating the length -up-front, viz., 13, printed on the 
front-edge of the guide. This measure is used for the purpose of 
determining the exact locality or point of the front-neck. It also 
regulates the slope or angle of the shoulder. 

How to Draft the Front-Neck. 
Rule 7 — Place the front-guide in the position represented by 
diagram 3, viz.: AVith the measure 12, front neck, placed on a 
line with, and directly opposite the dot 13, previously made on 
the hem-line, to denote length up front ; observing at the same 
time that the front-edge of guide is placed close to and parallel 
with the hem-line all the way down; then make dots at 12 
front neck and 12 upper-neck. Now place the neck-curve of the 
guide directly underneath, and touching the dots just made for 
neck-measure ; then draw a line from the hem at front to the 
upper-neck-dot on the goods, using for this purpose the neck 
curve of the guide. This shapes the front-neck as shown by 
diagram 4. 




Length up Front. 



1. inch for hem or curve. 



Edge of Dress Goods. 




S2 Front Neck. 
•• 

Front Edge of Dress Giude. 

• Length up Center of Front. 



K<ige.of Dress dSoods. 



[12] 
How to Draft the Front Shoulder. 

Rule 8 — Place the upper-neck-point of the guide directly at 
the upper neck point on the goods, at the same time having the 
shoulder-edge of guide resting on the top of arm-curve, at the 
figures 13, as indicated in diagram 4. While the guide remains in 
this position, draw a line on the goods from the upper-neck- 
jjoint to the figure 5J, the shoulder-length. See diagram 5. 

The figures printed on the shoulder-edge of the guide, indicate 
the different shoulder-lengths. 

How to Re-Shape the Upper Part of Front Arm- Curve. 

Rule 9 — Place the lower j^art of the arm-curve of the guide 
to the same part of arm -curve on the goods, at the same time 
having the top of arm-curve resting at the end of the shoulder- 
line, as indicated by figure 5| ; then draw a line from the end of 
shoulder-line to the lower breast-dot, as shown by diagram 5. 

The arm curve, below the lower breast-dot, should not be 
changed. 

How to Find the Proper Height of Darts at Front. 

Rule 10 — Lay the dart rule across the outline of the front 
waist already drafted on the goods in the same position as shown 
by diagram 5, viz.: With the wide end of the rule placed close to 
and parallel with the hem-line, and the upper edge near the point 
placed directly underneath the lower part of arm-curve. While 
in this position, make dots at the " 1st and 2d Darts for Ladies," 
printed near the lower edge of the dart-rule. 

To Measure Dart-Space at the Bottom of Waist. 

Rule 11 — Measure on the waist-line 1| inches from the hem- 
line, and make a dot. Now shape the first dart by placing the 
pointed end of dart-rule close to the dot made on the goods for 
the top of the first dart, at the same time having the side of dart- 
rule close to the IJ-inch dot previously made on the waist-line, 
then draw a line dov/n'each side from the point to the waist-line. 

The second dart is shaped in the same manner, leaving one 
inch space between each dart on the waist-line. 

To Draft the Center Line of Darts . 
Rule 12 — Make a dot on the waist-line in the center of each 
dart ; then draw a straight line from this dot to the point, as shown 
in diagram 6. 




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This line is designed as a guide in basting the goods down the 
center of the dart before sewing the sides together. 

Allow for seams, as shown by diagram 6. The inner line is de- 
signed for basting, the outer for seams. 

Diagram 6 — Represents the front of dress-waist in its finished 
condition, showing the re-shaping of the arm-curve ; also, the 
the dotted lines, denoting the center of darts, the space allowed for 
seams, and the proper shape of the curve at front. 

This completes the Front of Dress Waist. 

Diagram 7 — Is designed to represent the back of the dress- 
waist in its general shape and outline; also, the location and 
names of the various points, curves and lines forming the basis of 
the measurements used in drafting the back of dress-waist. 

Diagram 8 — Is designed to show the proper position of the 
back dress guide on the goods in the first stage of drafting the back 
of dress-waist. 

The heavy line running parallel with the center of back edge 
of guide, indicates the fold of dress-goods in position for drafting. 

The perforations 12* 12* in the two dotted lines running cross- 
wise of the diagram near the center, represent the average meas- 
urement across the back ; and the dot 24* with the line running 
crosswise near the bottom of the diagram, represents the average 
measurement around the waist. 

How to Draft the Back of Dress-Waist. 

Closed at the Center. 
[see diagram 8.] 

First bring the two selvages evenly together ; then place the 
top of the goods at the left-hand side, and the fold-edge, or mid- 
dle of the goods, directly in front. 

Rule 13 — The back-dress-guide should now be placed on the 
goods in the same position as shown by diagram 8, viz.: With the 
neck-point of the guide at the top, and the center-of-back edge 
of guide close to and parallel with the fold in front. Then make 
dots on the goods through the perforations on the guide at 12* 
12* back-measure, and 24* for measure around the waist. 





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[16] 

How to Shape the Back Arm Curve. 

[see diagram 10.] 
Rule 14 — This is done by placing the two dots B* B* printed 
on the arm-curve of the back-guide close to and on a line with 
the two dots made on the goods at 13* 13* back-measure. Then 
draw a line downward, from 15, arm-measure, to the arm-point, 
following the edge of the curve. 

How to Draft Length of Waist. 

[UXDER THE AEM.] 

Rule 15 — Place the arm-point of the back-guide exactly at 
and touching the arm-point on the goods ; observing at the same 
time that the length-of-waist edge of guide is placed close to and 
on a line with the dot 24* around-the-waist measure, as shown 
in diagram 10; then draw a line along the edge of the guide, 
downward, from the arm-point to the figure 8, which denotes 
length of waist. 

How to Draft the Bottom of Waist-Line. 
Rule 16 — Place the ceuter-of-back edge of guide close to and 
parallel with the edge or fold of goods, and the bottom-edge of the 
guide resting directly on the end of length-of-waist line ; then 
draw a line straight across from the figure 8 to the center of back. 
See diagram 10. 

How to Measure on the Goods for Length Up Center-of-Back. 

Rule 17 — Place the center-of-back edge of the guide close to 

and parallel with the fold of goods, and the bottom-edge of the 

guide resting on the waist-line ; then dot on the edge of goods at 

the figures 15|, printed on the guide for length up center of back. 

How to Dot at the Measure for the Back-Neck. 
Rule 18 — Place the back-guide in the position represented by 
diagram 9, viz. : With the figure 12, back-neck-measure, placed on a 
line with and directly opposite the dot 15|, previously made on the 
edge of goods, for length up center of back, observing at the 
same time that the center-of-back edge of guide is on a line with 
the fold of goods all the way down ; then make a dot on the 
goods at 12, back-neck. Now slip the guide downward until 
the neck-edge of the guide is directly underneath and on a line 
with the dots just made; then draw a line from the figure 15^^ on 
the edge to 12, as shown in diagram 10. 






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Length up Center of Back. 



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Center of Back. 



Length up Center of Back . 



[18] 

How to Draft the Back-Shoulder-Line. 

[bee diagram 11.] 

Rule 19 — Place the back-neck-poiut of the guide exactly at 
and touching the back-neck-dot on the goods^ at the same time 
having the shoulder-edge of the guide near the lower end resting 
on the top of the arm-curve, at figure 15 ; and, while the guide is 
in this j)osition, draw a line from the back-neck-point to the figure 
5|, printed on the shoulder of the guide, denoting the length. 

How to Re-Shape the Back Arm-Curve. 

[see diagram 11.] 

"Rule 20 — Place the arm-jDoint of the guide exactly at and 
touching the arm-point on the goods, at the same time having the 
upper part of arm-curve placed at the end of the shoulder-line in- 
dicated in diagram 11 by figure 5|, then draw a line from the end 
of shoulder to the arm-point as shown in diagram 11. 

How to Shape the Side-Form of the Back-Waist. 

Pule 21 — Place the side-form-rule of the guide in the same 
jwsition on the goods as shown in diagram 11, viz. : First make a 
dot at the waist-line on the goods half-an-inch from the center of 
back; also, make a dot on the arm-curve, a little below half-way; 
then place the uj^per edge of the side-form-rule close to these dots, 
and draw a line from the arm-curve to the waist using the uj)per 
or most rounded edge for this purpose. 

The shape of the curve can be varied, more or less, as the differ- 
ence in forms and change in fashion may require. 

Diagram 11 — This represents the back of dress-waist in its 
finished condition, showing the re-shaping of the arm-curve, the 
shape and position of the side-form, lines for seams, etc. 

This completes the Back of Dress- Waist. 



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LKSSON 2. 



Front of Lady's Basque. 

[see diagram 15.] 

Rule 22 — The front of this garment is drafted according to 
rules previously given under diagrams 1, 3, 4 and 5, except when 
adding for the two front darts or biases, allow 2 inches for under- 
arm bias. See diagram 15. 

To draft the skirt of basque — Place the skirt-rule point-A at the 
bottom of waist under the arm (see figure 8), and the straight- 
edge of rule placed parallel with the edge of goods ; make a dot 
at perforation 3 on the rule running cross-wise and marked for 
gores. 

To draft the skirt-line — Slip the lower edge of rule so that the 
straight-edge will touch the dot 3 ; draw a line from the bottom of 
waist down to figure 6, marked on the straight-edge of rule ; next 
measure down the edge of goods at the front, 8 inches, and draw 
a line from 6 at the side to 8 ; this line forms the skirt of basque, 
which may be shaped to suit any style. 

The outline of the darts or biasses should now be extended to 
the bottom of the skirt in the manner indicated by diagram. 

Seams are to be allowed, and a hem or curve at front to suit. 



DIAGRAM 15. 

LADY^S BASQUE ; 




Gore. 



[22] 

How to Find the Slope of the Gore. 

[at the side.] 

Rule 23 — This is done by placing the skirt-rule on the goods 
in the same position as shown in the diagram, viz.: AVith the 
A-point of the rule resting at the end of length-of-waist-line, 
indicated by the dot at figure 8, and the straight-edge of the rule 
placed exactly parallel with the edge of goods ; then make a dot at 
the figure 3 for gore at the side, printed across the center of skirt- 
rule " slope of gores". 

How to Draft the Line for Length of Skirt. 
[at the side.] 

Rule 24 — Keep the A-point of the skirt-rule in the position 
last described, viz.: At the terminus of the length-of- waist-line, at 
the same time having the straight-edge of the rule moved close to 
and on a line with the 4-inch dot made for gore ; then draw a line 
from the A-point down to the 6 inch dot, shown by diagram, de- 
notins: the lena-th of the skirt at the side. 

In drafting the gores, it is very important that the straight-edge 

of the skirt-rule be placed exactly parallel or even with the edge 

of goods all the way down, otherwise the true slope can not be 

obtained. 

For Length of Skirt, at the Front. 

Rule 25 — Measure down the edge of goods at the front, 8 

inches from the waist line, and make a dot to denote the length of 

skirt. 

How to Curve the Bottom of Skirt. 

Rule 26 — Place the. curved-edge of the skirt-rule up to and 
on a line with the dots made on the goods for length, and draw a 
line from dot 6, at the side, to dot 8 on the edge of goods at front* 
- How to Lengthen or Extend the Darts. 
[below the avaist-line.] 

Rule 27 — Place the straight-edge of skirt-rule up to and 
parallel with the center-line of the darts; then continue this line 
downward, by the same slope to the bottom of the skirt. 

The outline of the darts should now be extended below the 
waist to the bottom of the skirt, by drawing a straight line from 
the terminus of each dart, at the waist-curve, to the terminus of 
the center-line, at the bottom of the skirt. Both sides of the, 
darts should be drafted in the same manner. 

This completes the Front of Basque. 



DIAGRAM IG. 



Back- 




Back 
Lady's Basque. 




[24J 

Back of Lady's Basque. 

[see diagram 16.] 

The waist of this garment is drafted according to rules previ- 
ously given under diagrams 8, 9, 10 and 11, except to place the 
guide away from the edge of goods 2 inches. This is to allow for 
spring and curve at the center of back. If a plait is desired 
below the waist, more may be added. 

When dotting for waist-measure 24* add beyond this 2 inches, 
and draw the length of waist-line so that the 23attern, when com- 
pleted, will be 2 inches wider on the waist-line. See diagram 16. 

Slope the center of back-waist as indicated by diagram. 
Draw the first line for side-form Ij inches from the center of 
back on waist-line, and 2 inches from the top of arm-curve. 
The second line is drawn 2 inches away from the first, just as much 
as was added when drawing the pattern, and 1 inch below the first 
on the arm-curve. The gores are drafted the same as for front, 
using the figures indicated on diagram. The dotted line indi- 
cates the line for cutting, the others for sewing. Allow for seams. 

« 

How to Draft the Skirt. 

[at the back.] 

Rule 28 — This is done by placing the A-point of the skirt-rule 
reversed at the center of the back-waist-line. See diagram 19. 
Dot at perforation 1 on the line for gores. Slip the rule so that 
dot 1 will be on a line with its straight-edge and draw to figure 8. 
The next gore is made by placing the skirt-rule right side up at 
the lower end of side-form-line, and the straight edge parallel with 
the fold of goods. Dot at perforation 1| for gore. Slip the rule 
even with the dot, draw a line to figure 7, with the curved edge of 
rule draw a line from 7 to 8, this being the skirt-line. The side- 
form-line is drawn with the straight-edge of rule from figure 2 
downward 7 inches. . The scam under the arm is drawn in like 
manner, except dot at figure 2 instead of Ih. Draw the skirt-line 6 
inches, and with the curved edge of rule draw a line from 6 to 7. 

If plaits are desired draft according to diagram 17. 
This completes the Back of Basque. 



BiAGllAM 17. 






DIRECTOIRE COAT. 
Open at the Fronti 



'Around Waist. 

\S Length of Waist. 




[26] 

Lady's Polonaise or Directoire Goat. 

[see diagram 17]. 

How to Draft the Front. 

Rule 29 — Place the front-guide on the goods in the same posi- 
tion as shown in diagram, and proceed to draft the waist accord- 
ing to the rules previously given for Front of Lady's Basque. 

The skirt of polonaise is drafted by the rule previously given 
for Lady's Sacque- Wrapper, and the darts by the rule for Lady's 
Basque. 

Directoire Coat or Polonaise, With Box-Plait. 

[see diagram 18.] 

How to Draft the Back. 

Rule 30 — Place the back-guide 4 inches from the edge of 
goods, to allow for the plait at the center of back ; then draft the 
waist in the same manner as described for Back of Basque, see 
diagram 16, by separating the side-form; making the gore at the 
side ; shaping the box-plait at the back, etc., applying the meas- 
ures printed on the diagram for this purpose. 

The side-form line may terminate at the shoulder instead of the 
arm-curve, if desired. The length of skirt, at the side next back, 
is 39 inches, and the length of skirt, at the side next front, is 34 
inches, difference in the two lengths being 5 inches. This differ- 
ence should be taken up in three plaits, near the upper part of the 
skirt, at the side next back. 



.Ifeck 



DIAGRAM 18. 

BACK OF DIRECTOIRE COAT. 

with Box Plait at tfie Side-Form: 
also at the Center of Back. 




LKSSON 3. 



Miss' Basque, Closed at the Front. 

[see diagram 19.] 
How to Draft the Front. 

Rule 31 — Place the front-guide in the same position as shown 
in diagram 19, viz. : With the front-edge slipped over the fold of 
goods 1 inch ; then draft in the usual manner by the rule given for 
waist closed at the front, remembering to add only one dart to the 
waist-measure. 

The dart should be extended below the waist-line to the bottom 
of skirt, the same as Lady's Basque. In all other respects, the frdnt 
of this garment is drafted by the rule for Front of Lady's Basque. 

Remember that, when dotting for the measures of the neck, the 
edge of front-guide should be slipped over the fold of the goods 
in the same manner as when first commencing ; otherwise, the dress 
would be too large at the front-neck.. 

Miss' Basque, Open at the Back. 

[see diagram 20.] 
How to Draft the Back. 

Rule 32 — Before commencing to draft this waist, it is necessary 
to draw a line jjarallel with and 1 J inches distance from the selvage- 
edge [of goods, making it the entire length of the back. This 
line is to allow for the gore of the skirt at the center of back. 

A second line should now be made for lap, viz. : 2 inches distant 
from the line first made. Now place the center-of-back edge of 
guide close to this line, and draft the waist in the same manner as 
for waist open at the back, applying the measures printed on the 
diagram. 

This style of basque can be made with side-form at the back, 
and gored-seam extending from the same, by applying the rules 
previously given for this purpose. 







Selvage i:<Ig:e ol I>rei«s Ooods. 



OS 







Folded Edge of 



l>ress <jiood««. 



Front edge ol'l'i'css CJnide sHpjitd 
one inch over folded edge of Goods 



[30] 

Lady's Loose Sacque-Oloak. 

Double-Breasted. 

[see diageam 21.] 
How to Draft the Front. 

Rule 33 — Place the front guide on the goods in the same 
position as shown in diagram, viz.: 2^^ inches from the selvage- 
edge, to allow sufficient goods for the shaping of the double- 
breasted collar; then draw a line along the front-edge of the 
guide, its entire length. Xow proceed to draft in the same manner 
as for the front of tight-waist. 

The skirt at front, for sacque-cloak, is drafted by the same rule 
as the front-skirt of Lady's Polonaise^ by applying the measure 
printed on the diagram for the gore and length. 

The spaces indicated by the figures 24* 33* and 42* denote fullness 
added to the measure around the waist. 

The sloping line, commencing 6 inches on the edge of goods 
below the front-neck, and terminating at the 1-inch dot on the 
shoulder-line below the upper-neck, denotes the line of fold for 
collar. 

The ujjper portion of the neck, commencing at the intersection of 
the lower part of the neck-curve with the dotted sloping line, 
extending to the 1-inch dot at the shoulder, should be cut away for 
the sewdng on of the rolling collar. 

The buttonholes, indicated by the large dots near the selvage- 
edge, and running lengthwise of the front, are three inches apart, 
and the buttons are placed five inches across from the buttonholes, 
and directly opposite. 

For the shaping of the collar, see diagram for Gent's Dress- 
ing Gown. 

Lady's Loose Sacque-Cloak. 

[see diageam 22.] 
How to Draft the Back. 
Rule 34 — Place the back-guide on the goods in the position 
shown by diagram, and draft in the same manner as for back of 
tight-waist, except at the measure across the back, which should 
be made 1 inch looser than for a tight-waist. Also, at the meas- 
ure around-the-waist, 2 inches should be added for fullness ; re- 
membering to measure by the inches on the dart-rule. 



DIAGItlM22. 

LADY'S LOOSE SACQUE CLOAK. 




15 Ann measure. 



Back measure. 



24« 



Waist line. 



2 inches added to Waist measure. 
8 Length.of Waist. 



, 3 







[33] 

The skirt of this garment is drafted by the same rule as Lady's 
Polonaise, applying the measures given in the diagram. 

The upi^er part of the back indicated by the 1-inch dotted line 
below the neck, should be cut off to fit the neck at the front, 
and for the sewing on of the collar. 

Front and under arm darts may be added when desired. 

Lady's Circular. 

[see diagram 23.] 

The measures used in drafting this garment consist of — first, the 
neck ; second, across the back ; third, length down the center of 
back, and, fourth, length down the center of front. 

How to Draft the Back of Circular. 

Rule 35 — Place the back-guide in the position indicated in the 
diagram, viz.: With the center-of-back edge of guide placed 
directly at the fold-edge of goods, at the same time having the 
neck-edge slipped down 5 inches below the top ; then dot at 1 2, 
back-neck ; also, at 13, for measure across the back, dotting on 
the upper line of measures for this purpose. Xow change the posi- 
tion of the guide, and draw the line for back-neck. Next, place 
the guide in the following position, viz.: With its upper neck-point 
resting at the neck-point on the goods, at the same time having the 
shoulder-edge resting on the dot made for back-measure, viz.: 13. 
Then draw a line on the edge of the shoulder from the neck-dot 
12 to the figure 5, for length, printed on the shoulder-edge. 
Next, measure 1 inch straight across from the back-neck, and make a 
dot ; and from this point again measure 1 inch straight up, and dot. 

How to Draft the Front of Circular. 
Rule 3(3 — Turn the front-guide wrong side up, and place it in 
such position on the goods that the upper-neck measure, 12, will be 
directly on aad over the 1-inch dot last made, at the same time keep- 
ing the front-edge of the guide on a parallel line with the edge of 
the goods; then dot at 12, front-neck, and 12, upper-neck. The 
front-guide should be changed into its proper position, and the 
neck-curve-edge of the guide placed directly up to and under the 
dots last made for neck at front. A line should now be drawn 
from 12, upper neck, to 12, front neck, as indicated in diagram. 



HOOD FOR CIRCULAR. 






.,^^'K^ 



' f^"*^^^"^- 






I 



Kdse oi'Goo<l«. 



Length. 




qoui \ 





■M 




Center of Back 








Edg;e of tioods. 


vW 








OJ 








1^ 
< 


CO 

> 

Q 
< 


a: 

< 

D 
O 





o 



Length. 80 



[35] 

The plait on the shoulder is shaped by drawing a line on the 
shoulder-edge of the back-guide from the upper-neck dot 12, to 
the 5-inch dot on the terminus of the shoulder-plait. 

The length of the circular and the curve at the bottom are ob- 
tained in the following manner, viz.: Place the figure-1-end of the 
taj^e-line on the fold-edge of the goods, 2 inches above the line of 
back-neck fastening it by pin or otherwise to the table ; then 
Avrap the tape-line at the distance of 30 inches from the upper 
end around a pencil, and while fully stretched, draw a line around 
from the fold-edge to the front. This gives the curve for the 
bottom, and the proper length. 

Hood for Circular. 

[see diagram 24.] 
How to Measure for Hood of Circular. 

First, measure with tape-line, beginning at the nape of the neck, 
passing over the crown of the head to the center of the forehead ; 
second, measure from the left side of the neck, below the ear, to the 
opposite side at the same point. 

How to Draft the Neck-Curve of Circular. 

Rule 37 — First, measure down the selvage-edge of goods 9 
inches, and make a dot ; also, measure across the top of the goods 
9 inches ; then draft the neck-curve with the tape-line stretched 
in the manner described for drafting curve at the bottom of circu- 
lar, using 9 inches instead of 30. 

For length of hood make a dot 20 inches below the 9-inch dot, 
measuring on the edge of goods ; then make a dot 1 2 inches above 
the 20-inch dot last made. 

The curve for the bottom of the hood is shaped by the tape-line 
in the manner previously described, placing the 1-inch end of tape- 
line at the 12-inch dot last made and drawing a curve around the 
bottom, with the tape-line stretched 12 inches, as shown in dia- 
gram 49. 

The upper side of the hood, extending from the 12-inch dot to 
the 9 -inch dot at the top, is shaped by the side-form rule ; also, the 
dotted outside line, which is designed for facing. 



LESSON 4. 



Gent's Sacque-Yoke Shirt. 

[see diagram 25,] 

How to Draft the Back. 

KuLE 38 — For this garment draft by the following average 
measures, viz. : First, Across the breast 18 inches; Second, Omit 
the measure around the waist, and draw the line for length of 
waist straight down from the arm-point the required length ; Third, 
Around the arm, 16; Fourth, Length of waist, 10 inches; Fifth, 
Length up center of front, 16; Sixth, Around the neck, 14; 
Seventh, Length of shoulder, 6 inches; Eighth, Length of skirt 
from arm-point to the bottom, 25 inches. 

The outline of this garment is drafted by the rules previously 
given for dress-waist, and applying the above measures for this 
purpose. 

How to Shape the Back-Neck. 

Rule 39 — The waist of this garment being drafted, then pro- 
ceed by making a dot on the edge of goods 2 inches above the 16- 
inch dot. The back neck is now shaped by the neck-curve of the 
the guide, drawing a line Vvath the guide in a reversed position from 
the 2-inch dot on the edge to the 14-inch dot of uj^per-neck. This 
being done, make another dot 2 inches from the edge of the goods 
on the curve of back neck. Then make a dot three-fourths of an 
inch below the 6-inch dot at the terminus of the shoulder. A line 
should now be drawn across from the 2-inch dot on the curve of 
neck to the |-inch dot, below the end of shoulder Next, trim out 
the neck by cutting exactly on the line of the neck-curve and 
shoulder to l|-inch dot below the top of arm-curve. 



DIAGRAM 2 5. 



^ • 17 Arm measure. 



GENT'S SHIRT 




[38],- 

The goods should now be folded over on the line drawn from 
the 2-inch dot to the |-inch dot, so that the shoulder-edge of the 
yoke will meet at the dotted line indicated in the diagram as the 
yoke-seam. 

The back of arm-size is shaped with the side-form-rule, by 
drawing a line on the under-edge from the shoulder to the 1-inch 
dot below the arm-point. 

How to Shape the Front of Shirt. 

Rule 40 — First shape the front neck. This is done by making 
a dot IJ inches below the 16-inch dot, indicating the length up 
front, and then drawing the curve designated in diagram by the 
dotted line. 

The curve for front-neck is shaped, after the yoke is folded 
over, by the neck-curve of the guide being placed in such position 
as to unite with and form a continuous line Avith the curve of the 
yoke at back-neck, as shown by diagram. 

The dotted line in the diagram located at and forming the 
yoke-seam, is the terminus of the upper part of the front of shirt 
where it unites with the yoke. 

The reshaping of the front-arm-size is done by cutting off one 
inch at the arm-point first drafted. 

The curved dotted line, denoting length of waist, is shaped by 
marking on the curved-edge of the dart-rule, placing it in such 
position as to produce the shape desired. 

The curve and length of the shirt at the side are ,obtained by 
the skirt-rule, the corners being rounded by the side-form-rule. 

In drawing the arm-size of shirt it is necessary to draw the line 
from 16 arm-measure to 13, near the arm-point. 

Diagram 27 — This represents a separate yoke for shirt, and is 
drafted in the same manner as the sacque-yoke shirt, with the fol- 
lowing exceptions, viz.: The shoulder part of the back being ex- 
tended 3 inches beyond the arm-size of the front yoke, and then 
gathered into a separate yoke. The front of shirt, for separate 
yoke, is drafted in the same manner as the front of sacque-yoke 
shirt. 

The letters A. B. in the diagram indicate the yoke seam at back 
and the dotted line, commencing at the neck-curve, denotes the fold. 



[39] 

Dress-Skirt, Without Train. 

[see diaCxRAms 28, 29 and 30.] 
How to Draft the Front-Width. 
Rule 40 — First, fold the goods double ; then measure across 
the top 5 inches for waist-line, and make a dot. The A-point of 
the skirt-rule should now be placed at this dot, and the straight- 
edge of the rule parallel with the fold of goods, dotting at figure 2 
for gore, next front ; then draft the line for length at the side, and 
at the center of front, in the usual manner. 

The 1-inch dot on the fold-edge of goods, below the waist-line, 
denotes the curving of the waist at front. 

How to Draft the Side and Back-Width. 

Rule 42 — Place the goods in the position indicated by dia- 
gram ; then measure across the top 8 inches, for waist-line, and make 
a dot. Next, place the skirt-rule in the position previously de- 
scribed for forming the gore at the side, and draft the remainder of 
the skirt in the usual manner, being careful to use the figures indi- 
cating the lengths and gores, printed on the diagram. 

Diagram 30 represents one plain width, folded at the center of 
back, and is drafted by the figures indicating the measures, by the 
rule previously given. 

This skirt, when drafted, will measure 3 yards in width at the 
bottom. 

Dress-Skirt, With Train. 

[see dl^grams 31, 32, 33 and 34.] 

Rule 43 — This skirt is drafted by the same rule as given for 
skirt without train, with the exception of its having two gores on 
each side instead of one ; being, also, longer at the seams and wider 
at the bottom. 

In all other respects it is drafted in the usual manner, by ap- 
plying the figures on the diagrams indicating the distances and 
lengths, and the slope of the gores. 

This skirt, when drafted by these measures, will be three yards 
and three-quarters wide at the bottom, with train eight inches in 
length. 



Fold of Goods, Double, 



Center of Back 



T^ 






.^ 22 



Side. 



MelTage edge. 




Fold of I>res!4 Goods, Double. 




. r-i Siile ^elvage e^lge, 

SO 




SIDE. 
NEXT FRONT. 



Xext Center of Front. 



&Jelvag'<? t'*!}?*?- o4 Ci«»o«ls 




N^— — ^e 



^t Cent«^ 



ot 



f fro 



t^t. 



FRONT. 

OF 

TRAIN SKIRT. 



Center of Front. 



Tola ol Goods Double. 






[42] 

Lady's Sacque-Ohemise. 

[see DIAC4RAM 35.] 

How to Draft the Front and Back Together. 

Rule 44 — First, fold the goods double, and again cross-wise ; 
then proceed to mark oif the following distances, viz. : First, 
Measure down the edge of the fold 12 inches, and make a dot; 
Second, From this dot draw a line straight across 9 inches for bot- 
tom of waist; T/iird, Measure from the fold-edge across the top 
of the goods 12 inches, and dot; Fourth, From this dot draw a 
straight line down 4 inches for arm-size ; Fifth, From the 4-inch 
dot at the end of the arm-size-line draAv a line for length of waist 
to the 9-inch dot at the waist-line-terminus. 

The curves of the front and back-neck are drafted by the dots and 
figures printed on the diagram, and shaped by the curve of the 
side-form-rule ; the upper neck-dot being 3 inches from the fold- 
edge of the center. 

The skirt is drafted in the usual manner, using the measures in- 
dicating the slope of the gore and the lengths of the seams. 

Lady's Yoke-Chemise. 

[see diagram 36.] 

How to Draft the Front. 

Rule 45 — Place the front-guide on the goods in the position 

shown by diagram, viz. : With the front edge slipped 1 inch over 

the fold of the goods at the center-of-front ; then proceed to draft 

in the same manner as for tight-waist. 

The dotted curved line at the upper part of the waist 
indicates the part to be cut oif, and is shaped by the side- 
form-rule being placed at the distance of 3 or 4 inches below the 
neck, and Ih inches above the end of the shoulder-line. ^ 

The line under the yoke is also shaped by the side-form-rule 
being placed at the figures indicated, viz.: 4 or 5 inches above the 
waist-line, and 3 inches below the shoulder on the arm-curve, 
extending the line 3 inches beyond, for fullness, in the manner 
previously described for Yoke-Waists. 

This fullness is gathered into the yoke. 



[44] 

The remainder of the front is drafted as shown in the diagram, 
by making the leugth-of- waist line straight down from the 3-inch 
dot above the arm-point to the waist-line, and shaping the skirt 
in the manner previously described. 

Lady's ¥oke-Chemise. 

[see diagram 37.] 
How to Draft the Back. 

Rule 46 — Place the back-guide on the selvage-edge of goods, 
and draft the back in the same manner as described for the back 
of tight-waist, using the measures given in the diagram. 

The figure 5, printed on the edge of goods below the Neck, 
denotes distance from the neck, and the figure 2 denotes distance 
from the 5-inch dot located on the edge above. The l|-inch dot 
on the shoulder denotes distance above the top of arm-size, and the 
3-inch dot beyond the center of arm-curve denotes fullness. 

The forming of the yoke is done by placing the side-form rule 
at points indicated by the figures, and drawing a line according to 
the shape desired. 

The line for length of waist is made straight down to the waist- 
line. 

The skirt is drafted in the usual manner^, 

Corset Cover. 

[see diagram 38.] 
How to Draft the Front. 
Rule 47 — This garment is drafted by the same rule as previ- 
ously given for Miss' Basque, with the following exception, viz. : 
It being open at the front and low at the neck. 

The measures for this waist should be taken tighter than usual, 
as it is designed to be worn under the dress. 

The low neck is drafted by the measures and shaped as shown 
by the diagram. 

How to Draft the Back. 
[see diagram 39.] 
Rule 48 — The back of the corset-cover is drafted by the rule for 
Miss' Basque, excepting that there is a seam down the center of 
back, indicated by the curved line. 

The line for low-neck is formed in the usual manner. 




Lenprth. 



Edge of Goo«ls. 




E<lge of Woods. 






[46] , 
Lady's Drawers. 

[see diagram 40,] 
How to Draft the Back. 

E.ULE 49 — For this garment take the following measures : First} 
Around the waist, 24 inches ; Second, From the bottom of the 
waist down the side, 36 inches ; Tliird, Around the bottom of the 
leg, 20 inches. 

Rule 50 — Place the fold-edge of goods in the position indi- 
cated by the diagram ; then proceed in the following manner, viz. : 
First, Measure down the fold-edge of goods 2J inches from the 
top and make a dot, this gives the slope at the waist; Second, 
From this 2|-inch dot measure down the fold-edge 36 inches, and 
dot, this gives the length at the side; Third, From the 36- 
inch dot measure 10 inches straight across, this gives half the 
width of the leg of the drawers at the bottom ; Fourth, Meas- 
ure from the 2J-inch dot first made, sloping upward to the top of 
the goods, 12 inches, and dot; this gives half the width of the 
measure around the waist ; Fifth, Measure from the 2|-inch dot 
downward, on the fold-edge, 14 inches, and dot ; this distance is 
determined by adding 2 inches to one-third of the length, and forms 
the basis for the line across to the seat ; Sixth, From the 14- 
inch dot measure straight across 15 inches, and dot; this gives 
the line of the seat, and should be 3 inches wider than at the 
waist. 

The outline of the drawers is obtained as follows : First, Draw 
a line from the 2J-inch dot to the 12-inch dot at the front ; Sec- 
ond, Draw a line from the 12-inch dot to the 15-inch dot at the 
seat; Third, Draw a line from the 15-inch dot downward to the 
10-inch dot, curving it slightly with the curved edge of skirt-rule. 
This forms the line for inside seam of the leg of the drawers. 

This completes the garment, when the front and back are 
drafted alike. 

The front of the drawers at the top may be drafted narrower and 
shorter, if preferred, by shaping according to the under dotted line, 
marked front, 10 inches. See diagram. 



IvKSSON 5. 



Ladies' Newmarket v/ith Pelerine Sleeve. 

[see diagram 41.] 

In drafting this garment, 2 inches shoukl be allowed at front, 

if double-breasted is preferred ; two darts are allowed, as a rule, for 

all outside garments. Buttons and buttonholes may be placed as 

desired ; all double-breasted garments should be finished at the 

neck with a coat-collar, which should terminate 1 J inches from the 

-end on each side, forming a V shajje when finished. The collar 

should have an inner lining of canvas, and be folded over by dotted 

lines, and is drafted by the side-form rule. See diagram. 
• 

The sleeve forms a cape at front, and at back is sewed on 
down the side-form line as indicated. 

There being but two darts taken up, the front may be curved, 
as indicated in diagram. The back of Ladies' Newmarket may be 
■drafted by diagram 46, back of Ladies' Wrap, with full skirt plaited 
and sewed on to a baud underneath, or may be cut whole as indi- 
cated in diagram 18, for Ladies' Directoire Coat. 

Rule for Drafting Pelerine Sleeve. 
[see diagram 42.] 
This pattern should be drawn on medium-sized pattern paper. 
Draft front waist by the following measures : 

INCHES. 

15 — Breast. 
24 —Waist. 
15 — Arm. 

8 — Length of Waist. 
• 14 — Center of Front. 

13 J— Neck. 

6 — Shoulder, 

Measure from top of arm-size at the shoulder-point 3| inches, 
straight across and make a dot ; next measure down the arm from 
the top, 3^^ inches, and dot. 



DIAGRAM 41. 

FRONT OF NEWMARKET 
With Pelerine Sleeve. 




DIAGRAIML 42. 

PELERINE SLEEVE. 




[50] 

Take size-form rule reversed, with the extreme point of the 
upper end placed on the 3j-inch dot made on the arm-size, and the 
rounding-part of the rule touching the first dot made ; draw around 
from dot made on the arm-size the entire length of the side-form 
rule, continuing in a straight line 8 inches more and dot. 2 — Meas- 
ure downward from lower neck-point 25 inches and dot. Draw a 
line with the straight edge of skirt-rule from the 25-inch dot, to dot 
made at end of side-form line. This forms lower part of sleeve, 
and may be shaped to suit any style. The 3|-iuch dot at the 
upper part of the pattern should, when basted, touch the end of the 
shoulder-seam, and be gathered slightly to fit. This style of sleeve 
may be placed in any kind of wrap, short or long. 

Front of Tea-Gown. 

[see diagram 43.] 

Draft a plain waist ; allowing for 2 darts, although 3 or 4 
may be used if desired ; the skirt also in the usual manner. 

The line marked "folded over to form revers," represents the 
outside goods, after being cut and l^asted all ready for fitting, 
folded over to be faced and finished with blind stitching or cord ; 
the lining being exj)osed, may be covered with a gathered vest of 
contrasting color, or laid on jjlain, and finished in the ordinary 
manner with buttons and buttonholes. 

The irregular dotted line indicates the shape of revers, which 
may be changed if desired. The back of this garment can be cut 
by any rule or mode in the book to suit the taste ; the front may 
be curved to suit the size of bust. 

Back of Tea-Gown. 

Draft the back by diagram-^except to allovv^ one number at 
the waist extra ; for example, if the waist-measure is 24, dot at 25, 
allowing 2 inches beyond for cutting away of the side-form. 

The skirt may be composed of two plain Avidths or less, if the 
material is very wide, and after lining with crinoline may be laid 
in deep side-plaits, about one-half inch in width on the waist-line, 
and spreading out fan shape toward the bottom. They should be 
stayed underneath to within 16 inches of the bottom. 

The skirt is sewed on to a band and fastened to the basque 
underneath at the waist ; a rolling collar completes the neck, term- 
inating at the end on the buttonhole-side, and to the first button 
on the other side. 



DIAGRAM 43. 

FRONT OF TEA GOWN. 




DIAGRAM U. 

BELL SLEEVE. 



V 



^% 



[54] - 

Front of Standard Wrap, with Dolman Sleeve. 

A plain waist may be drafted, double or single-breasted. 

The line for sleeve is shaped with side-form. The tabs at 
side are also shaped by the same rule. 

Diagram 47 illustrates the sleeve. Coat sleeve may be substi- 
tuted for the one indicated, if preferred. 

Standing collar is preferable for this style of garment, when 
<3ut single-breasted. 

Back of garment is indicated by diagram 47 and is so simple 
that it requires little explanation to any one accustomed to drafting. 
The back is not susceptible of much change, except that plaits may 
be dispensed with, and the skirt be longer or shorter as preferred. 

Sleeve for Standard Wrap. 

Measure straight across 12 and make dot 1st; next measure 
diagonally 10 inches and dot 2ud ; measure down 14 inches and dot 
3d ; measure across from dot 3d 20 inches and dot 4 ; measure 
straight down from 1st dot 9 inches and dot 5 ; shape with side- 
form-rule. The shape at bottom is a matter of taste and may be 
changed to suit. The top of sleeve is to be slightly gathered and is 
sewed into the wrap on the lines indicated by pattern. The lower 
part at dot 3d should terminate when finished at dot 5 on the front of 
wrap, and the corresponding dot 4^ should terminate at 7 on the 
back when finished. 

Eight-Dart Basque. 

Draft in the ordinary manner, except to add 4 inches for two 
imder-arm darts, which should be placed on the pattern, equally 
distant from each other, and the under-arm seam. The waist may 
be drafted one-half inch longer also, as the line for length of waist 
is quite bias and requires this additional length. 



DIAGRAM 16. 




Front of 
Standard Wrap 
with Dolman or 

Coat Sieeve. 




DIAGRAM 47. 

BACK OF lady's WRAP. 




•spoof) JO aSp3 



.S'-' 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



■H^ 



012 821 858 



I III! II 



IiHEflT IhAUEEMENTS 



•W- OFFERED -W- 



Desiring to Engage in a Pleasant and Remunerative Business. 



For every Town, Citv, County and State, to 
introduce and sell our Improved ISSQ "Family 
Dress Guide," with the new^ IIIusIraiEd Sslf-In- 
slruElinn Bnnk, entitled the ''SCIENCE AND 
GEOMETRY OF DRESS." 

TERMS.— Both the above vrorks, complete, 
T^ill be sent by mail on receipt of price, viz., $2.50. 

SAMPLE COPIES of the works complete, will 
be furnished to Dressmakers, and to persons 
wanting agencies, at $2.00. 

MONEY to be sent by Post-Office Order, 
Registered Letter, or Bank Draft, enclosed in 
envelope. 

Persons wishing full particulars of Agency, 
etc., will please enclose postage stamps for re- 
turn answer. Address all communications to 

Familii HrEss EnidE En.^ 

BOX 131. INDIANAPOLIS, IND. 



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